Flyfishing the mountain streams of Portugal
by Paul Sharman of fishandfly Magazine
There's a place, in Portugal to be exact, where it is still possible to fish on wild trout streams for a week and
never see another angler. Earlier this year I was lucky enough to find this out for myself on a trip to the Central
region of Portugal high in the mountains just a couple of hours drive inland behind Porto and Lisbon and just
a short flight away from the UK.
The destination was the small town of Gois which was to be my base for the week, nestled along the banks of
the beautiful Ceira river that runs right through the middle of town and with links back to the Moors and the
Romans who all passed this way in days past. The whole area is a maze of dramatic tree-shrouded
mountains and cavernous gorges filled with rushing streams and rivers that continue to cut their own paths
deeper and deeper into the rock. Remains of watermills and olive presses built of the local layered schist are
scattered everywhere and some of the mountain villages are still built out of this stone too - you'll see
signposts pointing you towards some of the most scenic.
But while the scenery was captivating I was here for the fishing at the invitation of a new guiding venture that
recently started up in the area. Portela Promotions originally started as a real estate business, finding homes
for a growing number of Brit's in particular who you'll see and hear in the local pizza restaurant which seems
to be the ex-pat gathering point. This business still continues but Dianne Franckeiss, an avid fisher along with
her husband Glenn happened to see a local fisherman one day who they got talking to and soon realised the
untapped potential of the region. That fisherman is now their guide - Joao, born and raised in the area who
knows all the streams and reservoirs and who also ties some pretty mean local fly patterns too!
never see another angler. Earlier this year I was lucky enough to find this out for myself on a trip to the Central
region of Portugal high in the mountains just a couple of hours drive inland behind Porto and Lisbon and just
a short flight away from the UK.
The destination was the small town of Gois which was to be my base for the week, nestled along the banks of
the beautiful Ceira river that runs right through the middle of town and with links back to the Moors and the
Romans who all passed this way in days past. The whole area is a maze of dramatic tree-shrouded
mountains and cavernous gorges filled with rushing streams and rivers that continue to cut their own paths
deeper and deeper into the rock. Remains of watermills and olive presses built of the local layered schist are
scattered everywhere and some of the mountain villages are still built out of this stone too - you'll see
signposts pointing you towards some of the most scenic.
But while the scenery was captivating I was here for the fishing at the invitation of a new guiding venture that
recently started up in the area. Portela Promotions originally started as a real estate business, finding homes
for a growing number of Brit's in particular who you'll see and hear in the local pizza restaurant which seems
to be the ex-pat gathering point. This business still continues but Dianne Franckeiss, an avid fisher along with
her husband Glenn happened to see a local fisherman one day who they got talking to and soon realised the
untapped potential of the region. That fisherman is now their guide - Joao, born and raised in the area who
knows all the streams and reservoirs and who also ties some pretty mean local fly patterns too!
Trout were the main reason I had come and
the local stretch of the river Ceira was at the
bottom of the street from our hotel, literally a
few steps away - brilliant! Beautiful clear
water flowed through tree lined banks down
through a series of weirs maybe a quarter
mile or so apart. I could already spot several
trout lying on the bottom or rising to the
occasional fly plus other fish I was later to find
out were the local barbel species and also
dace. The trout are predominantly browns
the local stretch of the river Ceira was at the
bottom of the street from our hotel, literally a
few steps away - brilliant! Beautiful clear
water flowed through tree lined banks down
through a series of weirs maybe a quarter
mile or so apart. I could already spot several
trout lying on the bottom or rising to the
occasional fly plus other fish I was later to find
out were the local barbel species and also
dace. The trout are predominantly browns
with an occasional rainbow and this stretch does receive some additional stocking. Wading in from the top of
one of the weirs we had tied on one of Joao's heavy golden nymphs to try our luck. Working our way up
opposite sides of the river we found most fish concentrated along the banks near to cover but with some fish
in the middle probably where larger rocks appeared. We picked up several small and willing brownies and I
even got one of the rare rainbows that seem to have found their way in.
Even the barbel were willing biters and equally good fighters! Not a species I had encountered before and it
was interesting to see the larger fish in the deeper holes and drop the same heavy nymph upstream to drift
down and watch them slide over to intercept it. It must have been near to their spawning season as several of
those I caught were covered in small white tubercles on their heads.
one of the weirs we had tied on one of Joao's heavy golden nymphs to try our luck. Working our way up
opposite sides of the river we found most fish concentrated along the banks near to cover but with some fish
in the middle probably where larger rocks appeared. We picked up several small and willing brownies and I
even got one of the rare rainbows that seem to have found their way in.
Even the barbel were willing biters and equally good fighters! Not a species I had encountered before and it
was interesting to see the larger fish in the deeper holes and drop the same heavy nymph upstream to drift
down and watch them slide over to intercept it. It must have been near to their spawning season as several of
those I caught were covered in small white tubercles on their heads.
Over the next few days we
travelled around the local area
fishing higher up the Ceira in the
countryside while villagers were
out planting their beans and
potatoes for the year and also a
couple of other smaller streams.
All shared the same stunning
scenery and wild trout and we
were only fishing the tip of the
iceberg Joao assured me. We
never saw another angler or even
any obvious tourists. This corner
of the country really has yet to be
discovered which of course
makes the experience all the
more enjoyable and relaxing.
travelled around the local area
fishing higher up the Ceira in the
countryside while villagers were
out planting their beans and
potatoes for the year and also a
couple of other smaller streams.
All shared the same stunning
scenery and wild trout and we
were only fishing the tip of the
iceberg Joao assured me. We
never saw another angler or even
any obvious tourists. This corner
of the country really has yet to be
discovered which of course
makes the experience all the
more enjoyable and relaxing.
There are plenty of other activities to keep you occupied in the mountains and Portela use a local outfitter
who can arrange kayak trips, ATV's, canyoneering and other adventures. If you are lucky you may visit during
the Festa season when whole villages hold celebrations with music and local foods and welcome everyone
to join in. I was also able to visit several local reservoirs where black bass and carp in particular can be
caught, both of which are very catchable on the fly too of course.
who can arrange kayak trips, ATV's, canyoneering and other adventures. If you are lucky you may visit during
the Festa season when whole villages hold celebrations with music and local foods and welcome everyone
to join in. I was also able to visit several local reservoirs where black bass and carp in particular can be
caught, both of which are very catchable on the fly too of course.